When we arrived in Liberia we hired a shuttle from The Gypsy Cab Company to pick us up and drive us the 2.5 hours to Playa Pelada. So great, we got to chat with Diego, our driver all the way and get insider knowledge of where to eat, best grocery stores, things to do, etc. In my younger travelling years I would shlep the kids and all our gear on the nearest “chicken bus” and take the long, hot drive to our destination. No more, my friends. I am older, wiser and make more money. Plus, Diego rented us his own car for the week at half the price of the rental companies and he took us around to find the secret spots that only the locals know about. Wouldn’t have managed that on a chicken bus.
Our week in Pelada and Guiones felt slow and tranquil; it was filled with long walks exploring the towns and even longer walks on miles of beach. Having a car made things much easier for us and we were able to drive out to a neighbouring fishing village called Playa Garza and have lunch at a traditional Tico Soda. This is basically a mom and pop restaurant usually located where they live. The one we went to was nameless and we ordered the only thing on the menu; the catch of the day served with salad, rice and beans. So delicious, I have no idea what kind of fish it was and since Madeline doesn’t eat fish, they simply gave her everything else. Nick and Georgia had a swim while we waited for our food and then we made the trek back to Pelada. I should add that the distance between these towns is very small, a few kilometers at the most; however, the gravel road is so dusty and filled with giant potholes that it is very slow going. And we got stuck in a traffic line as they were taking trees down along the road and it was single lane traffic. No flaggers, just the workers. Then when it was our turn to go, it was a free for all, everyone peeling out of the line up trying to get in front of everyone else. It was mayhem, we joined in and held our position!
Playa Guiones is the neighbouring town to Pelada, it is much bigger and attracts all the surfer as the beach there is amazing for surfing. But the town itself strikes me as a town created for expats. It has lots of trendy bars, coffee shops, clothing and retail, etc. and beautiful million dollar homes. The resorts are small and boutique catering to yogis and surfers. It seemed as though everyone there was young, beautiful and rich. Then on that backdrop, the roads are gravel and extremely dusty and everyone drives around on quads wearing bandanas over their faces and ski goggles. It would seem to me that the combined wealth of that town could easily pave the roads. They do spray down the roads in the morning in front of some shops with a sugarcane waste product and the road smells like molasses and sticks to your shoes.
It was on day 3 that I think I slipped into holiday mode. I had my first siesta poolside in the middle of the day. Could not keep my eyes open. So indulgent! Granted I am up at 5am every morning and between the heat, swimming, surfing and exploring I am pretty beat by the end of the day. I haven’t made it passed 10pm yet. I’ll try on New Year’s maybe. Our routine is pretty similar to when we are in Mexico, up early, exercise and swim in the morning, run errands and be poolside or at the beach in shade for midday. Then out and about again for sunset and a cool walk on the beach in the evening.
Costa Rica is very different from Mexico; I keep thinking that I am in Mexico because it is hot and everyone is speaking Spanish but the similarities end there. Here in Costa Rica I find that it is much quieter, there is no loud music playing all day and night, in the evenings the streets are not filled with people out strolling, it is very clean and there are recycling and composting bins everywhere. More people are bilingual and when I am speaking in my terrible, butchered Spanish, most people answer me in English to my surprise. Overall though, I like it here, it doesn’t have that edge that Mexico has, but that is kind of nice. Mexico is grittier and keeps you on your toes while Costs Rica is simply Pure Vida!
onesmallboat 