New Friends

When we arrived in Liberia we hired a shuttle from The Gypsy Cab Company to pick us up and drive us the 2.5 hours to Playa Pelada. So great, we got to chat with  Diego, our driver all the way and get insider knowledge of where to eat, best grocery stores, things to do, etc. In my younger travelling years I would shlep the kids and all our gear on the nearest “chicken bus” and take the long, hot drive to our destination. No more, my friends. I am older, wiser and make more money. Plus, Diego rented us his own car for the week at half the price of the rental companies and he took us around to find the secret spots that only the locals know about. Wouldn’t have managed that on a chicken bus.

Our week in Pelada and Guiones felt slow and tranquil; it was filled with long walks exploring the towns and even longer walks on miles of beach. Having a car made things much easier for us and we were able to drive out to a neighbouring fishing village called Playa Garza and have lunch at a traditional Tico Soda. This is basically a mom and pop restaurant usually located where they live. The one we went to was nameless and we ordered the only thing on the menu; the catch of the day served with salad, rice and beans. So delicious, I have no idea what kind of fish it was and since Madeline doesn’t eat fish, they simply gave her everything else. Nick and Georgia had a swim while we waited for our food and then we made the trek back to Pelada. I should add that the distance between these towns is very small, a few kilometers at the most; however, the gravel road is so dusty and filled with giant potholes that it is very slow going.  And we got stuck in a traffic line as they were taking trees down along the road and it was single lane traffic. No flaggers, just the workers. Then when it was our turn to go, it was a free for all, everyone peeling out of the line up trying to get in front of everyone else. It was mayhem, we joined in and held our position!

Playa Guiones is the neighbouring town to Pelada, it is much bigger and attracts all the surfer as the beach there is amazing for surfing. But the town itself strikes me as a town created for expats. It has lots of trendy bars, coffee shops, clothing and retail, etc. and beautiful million dollar homes. The resorts are small and boutique catering to yogis and surfers. It seemed as though everyone there was young, beautiful and rich. Then on that backdrop, the roads are gravel and extremely dusty and everyone drives around on quads wearing bandanas over their faces and ski goggles. It would seem to me that the combined wealth of that town could easily pave the roads. They do spray down the roads in the morning in front of some shops with a sugarcane waste product and the road smells like molasses and sticks to your shoes.

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Playa Pelada, Nosara

And so begins another adventure for the Smith clan. I love, love, love to travel! New people, smells, food, language. I feel completely out of my element and it is so fun😀

We arrived at our AirBnb in the dark but thankfully our driver, Diego knew where it was. We stopped at the most expensive Mini Supermarket in the area (lesson learned) to get a few things and spent majority of our time in there looking for familiar foods that we would find at home or in Mexico. Then we had the moment of trying to convert CR money to CDN dollars in our heads whilst answering questions from the girls. Sheesh, I have not wrapped my head around the money yet or if I am paying too much for things.

Our Airbnb is awesome! It’s all open air with a stunning ocean view. The bedrooms, bathroom, and kitchen are off the patio and although there is no aircon, the breeze off the ocean keeps it pretty cool. We did have an ant infestation when we arrived, greeters maybe? I went on a killing spree with some toxic chemical while Nick filled the hole in the wall with candle wax. Clever hey?

Normally I research an area thoroughly before I travel there but not this time. I know very little about this country, I feel woefully unprepared and after packing my suitcase in less than 15 minutes I feel even more unprepared. Nick called me at work on Thursday at 2pm and said we had to catch the ferry ASAP as the weather was turning and they were expecting ferries to be cancelled. So at 3pm I left work and raced to take Gigi to ortho and then home to pack. We caught the 5:45pm ferry. For anyone who lives in my area, you know that is a quick turnaround. I basically got home, threw clothes in suitcase, took the garbage out, got the bed ready for the house sitter and left. The things I forgot is about a mile long. Whatever. I can buy the necessities, right? And the ferries were cancelled on Friday.

The area we are in is about a 3 hour drive from Liberia on the Guanacaste coast. It isn’t really that far but the roads are terrible; really, really dusty and bumpy. It is slow going. Everyone wears a bandana when they are driving and for good reason, it completely chokes you. Of course, everyone is driving a quad or dirt bike. Madeline is so wanting to rent dirt bikes and go for a “rip”. Nick and I walked the road early this morning- big mistake. We were dust covered by the time we got back.

Day 1 was very uneventful. We swam, got sunburnt, wandered around to get our bearings and read books. Delightful all in all. Tomorrow looks the same. I remember our friend Greg who lives in Mexico when asked what he does all day, answered, “fuck all, and that doesn’t start till noon.” That is my mantra for this trip.

Southern U.K. And London

I think we have covered this entire country now. The people are diverse, the landscape is stunning and I am amazed that there is so much green space on a tiny island with so many people. Culturally, I like how everyone gets on with things and really embraces notion of live and let live. They all work together to make things work. Like driving for instance; the roads are only big enough to let one car pass and people take turns, a few from one side and then a few from the other. No budding in, no flag person, just grown ups behaving like grown ups. Very refreshing. 


We were in Cornwall last week in an old cattle shed converted to a holiday home. Think low roofs, wonky stairs, stone walls and thick beams. It was built 400 years ago and we spent Canada Day there which is just 150 years old. Crazy. We went with Nicks cousin John and his family which was tons of fun but also exhausting. 


If you ever have the chance to visit Cornwall, you must go. It is awesome. All rolling hills, windswept cliffs, pokey villages and charming people. We stayed in Boscastle and travelled to Bude, Port Issac, Polzeath, and Padstow. It’s surfing territory but man that water is cold. I can’t name a favourite spot as they all had their merits but the little beach we found in Padstow was pretty fabulous. 

I went for a run in Cornwall and got lost. But I found an old church, ran through a field of sheep, had to knock on the door of someone’s cottage but finally made my way back. Whew. Oh, and I got chased by a dog.

Anyone recognize the house Gigi is standing in front of? It’s Doc Martin’s house! Nick and the girls thought it was pretty cool to walk around the village and recognize some of the scenes from the show.

On our way back to London from Cornwall we stopped for the night in Dorset in a place called the Isle of Portland. They had room in their hostel so that’s where we ended up. There is a bridge linking the isle to the mainland and a beach called schedule Beach that is a UNESCO site. The beach is a geological history of how England was formed since jurassic times. It’s right up there with the Great Barrier Reef and the Grand Canyon. It’s rocky, not sandy and it’s massive. Google it. 


Then it was back to London to hit the city. We spent 12 hours there yesterday exploring, it was hot, crowded, we lost our map and we were all very cranky by the time we got the tube home. But, it was also exhilarating and beautiful. In my next life I think I would like to live in London for a stint. 

Gigi bought a box set of 30 books that she couldn’t find in Canada and lugged them all around the city. She is so freakin’ excited about them and I think it may be the highlight of her trip. She also said she has to get used to being cramped and hot on the tube because when she moves to Japan it will be much the same. 

We are returning to London on Saturday for the Pride parade, get Gigi on the London Eye (massive line ups), have a picnic in the park and go to Buckingham Palace. Then I think my trip will be complete. Until next time. 

Breakneck Speed

I haven’t had a minute to myself to write but we are currently sitting in a traffic jam on the M6 and I think we are going to be awhile. 

We left Manchester this morning. What a shithole. For real, I have never been in a city with more trash, homelessness and an awful smell everywhere. None of us felt safe. We walked around trying to find something redeeming about it with no luck. Except Gigi, she found happiness in a shop called Forgotten Planet filled with all things anime and manga. She was in her glory. Nick on the other hand had no kind words for The North. 


We spent 4 days in Scotland; two nights in Edinburgh and one night Drymen, a small village on Loch Lomond.  What a spectacular place, so green, just rolling hill after rolling hill of sheep. Super friendly people, the streets are clean and I wasn’t worried about getting robbed. 


But, Edinburgh was too much. It’s a destination in itself. Too much to see and we missed a lot of it. We did take in The Elephant House where the first Harry Potter was written and the graveyard where a lot of characters names come from. 


Edinburgh Castle is stunning but the crowds made me a bit crazy. We walked the Royal Mile to Hollywood House and I did tour which included  Mary Queen of Scots apartment. And we walked. And walked some more. Finally the kids said enough and we took them back to our flat. They hung out and napped and Nick and I went to the pub. That’s when Edinburgh won. So many pubs! Get tired of one? Go next door. Too many pints, whiskey (yuck) and Scottish hospitality landed me in bed the next morning with a massive headache. 

The front door of this castle has a regular old doorbell. Cute. 
The trip has been amazing so far, we have travelled a ton already and we still have a lot to see. The kids are having fun with only a few punch ups. Our rental car is great, it’s called a Kadjar, it’s kinda like a Hyundai Sante Fe and has all the bells and whistles. I drove to Scotland and am comfortable driving in the country but not so much in the city. Too busy and the streets are way too narrow. At first there was a strict no talking or playing music while I drove. Plus I keep reaching for the gear shift with my right hand and then remembering it’s on my left. See my concentration?!



I still need to tell you guys about York and the surrounding areas. I loved York. Walkable and beautiful and it has a great hostel. But right now my fingers hurt from typing on my phone. Chat later!

Cambridge, Thaxted and Saffron Walden

Gigi finally got her ride on a double decker bus. Couldn’t be happier and then wondered why we don’t have them at home, how they must be more economical and maybe I could email BC Transit and inquire. She has a point.

We spent two days covering Cambridge and a few small villages around Dunmow. Cambridge was great, the kids loved it, so full of history and beautiful colleges. Madeline especially loved it here and said maybe she’ll go to school there! Good grief, I’ll have to sell everything I own and still not make tuition.

We stopped for lunch at an old pub, Nick once again was in his glory and none of us can believe how much food he putting back. He is eating at the chip shop once a day at least, plus all the pork pies, bacon in the morning and then he eats with us as well. I am constantly on the hunt for a meal that includes vegetables which is oddly hard to find unless they are cooked to death. So far the salads in the cafes are iceberg lettuce and a little onion. It leaves much to be desired. But the strongbow cider is refreshing in the heat!

Nick and I went for an early morning ride through the countryside and England has a national cycle network which means you can bike or walk the length of the country without ever having to go on a road. It’s incredible, it cuts through farmers fields that are maintained by the farmer and there are pubs listed on the maps as well. So civilized. We found little 12th century churches and stopped to look at the headstones and try to make out some of the dates. I find it all so amazing, all the history, but for those that live here it is common and not exciting at all.

Creepy, bizarre, bat-like gargoyle!

This is Dick Turpins home in Thaxted, we just happened upon it. Nick said he was an 18th century highwayman and was eventually caught in York and hung there for robbery. They didn’t actually know he was the guy robbing everyone on the road, he confessed once he was convicted of an unrelated crime.

We were on our way to Wimple Manor but got way laid in Saffron Walden, a medieval town that is quite well preserved. We toured what was left of the original walled city and then had a picnic in the park and a nap under a tree. It was nice to slow down a little and have an easy day. Gigi insisted that we don’t walk all day everyday so I relented a little and it was nice to take a drive and see the countryside.

The marching starts again though as we are on our way to York and then Edinburgh.

 

England vs. Mexico

So there are many similarities between England and Mexico that I have noticed in the last few days, for example, the grocery stores have the same look/feel. Nick and I went to Tesco’s to get all his favourite foods and to stock up for lunches on the road and when we went in it was really chaotic. There was stuff everywhere, the shelves were disheveled with empty boxes and the variety of processed foods was stunning. Oh, and the other thing I thought was cool was if you are doing self checkout, you get a hand held scanner and you scan through your items as you put them into your cart. They are verified at the end, pretty efficient plus you can manage how much you’re spending. Clever.

Went for a run around Great Dunmow to get a feel for the place and get my bearings. Sadly,  I got incredibly lost and ended up in many front gardens. The roads are all windy and higgledy piggedly and what appears to be a through road is in fact a driveway. Nevertheless, it was great to get out and stretch my legs after the long travel day. We are all still jet lagged and fall asleep about 6pm for naps but I think today will be a normal sleep cycle day for us. Anyway’s, I found a red telephone box on my run and was very excited until I opened the door and quickly realized that they are primarily used as a bathroom these days.

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We are staying with Nick’s cousin John, his wife Liv, and their 2 kids, Charlie (6) and Emily (4). Everyone is very lovely and I had forgotten how busy a house with little people is. It’s also loud. Especially in the morning when I am trying to write and have coffee. And Emily likes to crawl into bed with us at all hours of the night. I don’t mind though, I’ll take cuddles anytime. Of course the children adore Nick as he is the “child whisperer” and they follow him around like the Pied Piper all evening. Their house is in this subdivision but it’s not like a subdivision as we would think of it in Canada. It’s a VERY skinny lane with brick houses, all jam packed into this community. It is very nice, quiet and I like how everyone knows each other. Its also a dead end road so you would have no business being down this end unless you live here or are a tourist out for a run and lost.

Southend On Sea

We drove to the coast to get some sea air and cool off as it is Africa hot here. Nick used to go to Southend as a kid and wanted to see it and show the kids. When we arrived, Nick didn’t recognize hardly anything but he did get some cockles to eat on the beach and the kids went to the amusement park. The park is similar to the one in Santa Cruz, its free to wander through, its right on the water and you can buy a wristband to go on the rides for the day. It’s a huge place with an awesome rollercoaster and the kids stayed there for a few hours while Nick and I wandered around.


Now Southend draws a crowd from East London where Nick grew up. This area is mostly working class and it’s a tougher part of London. So the crowds in Southend reflected that. It was a great place to people watch to say the least, and I certainly wouldn’t want to get on the bad side of any of them.  Even the seniors. The drive out to the coast was pretty easy and Nick remembered to stay on the left most of the time. I haven’t attempted to drive yet, it’s not so much the left hand driving but the speed everyone goes and the multi lane roundabouts that freak me out.

So the boardwalk in Southend goes for a mile or so and it reminded me of Fishermans Wharf in San Francisco, lots of tourist shops, fish shops, amusement arcades, and pubs. Many, many pubs; we stopped for a beer in one and when the guy came outside to clear the tables he had a cigarette hanging out of mouth and a scowl on his face. He was moaning constantly about the hot weather and was just generally foul. I found this to be the theme of service in Southend. Overall, Southend was interesting to see but not my cup of tea. It had a lot of parallels to Mexico also;  garbage everywhere, young moms pushing strollers, people walking down the street drinking, and a ton of traffic.

Then Nick took us for fish and chips at the chip shop. Good lord,  the amount of fish you get in an order is unbelievable, they were about a foot long and you get 3 pieces. Nick was in his glory, he ate and ate and ate and finished off the fish at midnight. The girls and I had a bit, ate some chips and instantly felt greasy. That’s the thing with fish and chips, they seem like a great idea at the time and soon thereafter you want to die.


Next we are off to Cambridge to explore a few museums and churches.

 

And We’re Off

We made it to the ferry on time, most likely due to Gigi pacing since 6:15 am hurrying us along.  She is just like me and would prefer to “hurry up and wait” than run late and feel rushed.  Travel is so much easier with teenagers, sure they are occasionally surly and totally self obsessed, but they can pack a suitcase and are mostly self reliant! 

It’s going to be a long day.  We fly at 3:30 but had to leave the house at 7am to get to the airport on time. Nick said that Air Transat is rated the 6th best airline and we are flying into Gatwick which is rated the 2nd worst airport. Apparently it’s quite naff. Naff, if your wondering, is an English term for something bad or worn out. I’m like a native already and I haven’t even landed. 

Ok, back to the journey. I love travel, the journey and the destination. I think that’s why I like a road trip so much. But I love airports! People watching is probably my favourite pastime. I’m happy to get there early and just sit and watch the world go by.

I took a page out of my Aunty Patsy’s book and secured two rows of seats with an empty seat between us. I’m hoping that no one books the middle seat and we end up with more room.  For example, the row is seat A,B,C and I booked A and C. Fingers crossed it works! 

We land at 8:30 am England time and hopefully finding our rental car and driving across London doesn’t take too long. I am excited to drive on the opposite side of the road! Watch out Londoners! I’ll let you know how it all goes. Hopefully I don’t post a photo of a car crash😳

The Art of Doing Nothing

It’s noon and I’ve been really busy today doing nothing. I don’t know where the time goes, I’ve been up since 8, and all I’ve managed is a swim in the sea. Now don’t go thinking that it’s too easy down here, G was up all night throwing up ( dodgy burrito or perhaps the chocomilk/ ice cream/ cake combo) but she is sleeping now and I should probably have siesta as well.

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Madeline is swinging lazily in our hammock reading and Nick has gone to shoot pool and have birria ( goat stew) for lunch. After being on the road for 3 weeks it has been really nice to slow down and just be relaxed for this past week. Our days unfold the same way each morning more or less; a little exercise followed by a swim, breakfast that Nick cooks, reading, play cards or scrabble, head to the beach for a few hours, siesta and then back to the beach for sunset and our evening beach olympics. The games consist of running races, long jump, wrestling, and a modified golf game using our feet and a volleyball. Finally, we get cleaned up and head out for dinner.

We had two days of heavy rain last week and although it was nice to have a break from the heat, I got cabin fever pretty quickly and we would be drenched in minutes every time we stepped out to go get food. The thunder and lightening was spectacular and we all learned a little about tropical storms. The streets turned into rivers and it took days for it to dry up. The sun is out once again, the beach vendors are out hacking their wares and I am in a panic. I’m almost done my last book and I can’t get to the book exchange until later.

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We have visited with our friend Hilario and his family. We met them when their kids were small, and now we are hearing about weddings, graduations and their youngest just joined the marines. He has to stay in for 5 years but all his costs are covered plus he makes 14000 pesos a month. Most will be sent home to help the family and since Hilario isn’t working anymore, the extra money will help. Hilario had a stroke last year and spent two months in hospital in Acapulco. He has since regained most of he movement in his right side but can’t return to the labour work that he used to do. He’s not that much older than Nick but they are indigenous Mexicans and have struggled to raise their family.

We have 8 days left until we head up North. I can’t believe how quickly the time has gone by. The girls are excited to see their friends but I could quite easily hop on a bus, head south and keep on exploring this fabulous country.

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Life at 40 so far

Zihuatenajo was so much more than I expected. It is much bigger than I thought and the town centre is really lovely. All the sidewalks look the same and all the shops have this wonderful deep overhang to keep everything shady. Parking was pretty easy and the beaches are great for swimming. We found an apartment to rent for 2 nights, right in the centro for 650 pesos a night. A smashing deal, it even included air conditioning.

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We spent G’s birthday at Las Gatos beach, we took a panga boat ride to get there and rented snorkelling equipment for the day. Gigi loved it, we bought her new sun glasses, a yummy tres leches (3 milk) cake, and she had a piña colada and chicken fingers for lunch. A really great day, we finished with watching a basketball game and having tacos.

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The next morning we were due to push off early and head up the coast but when I opened my eyes I realized I was now 40. So I pulled the sheet over my head and cried. No, just kidding. I actually got up and walked to this great little hole in the wall and had a fantastic coffee. Then I cried.

So again we had no destination but we had heard of a few surfing spots that were supposed to be good along the way. We ended up in a pokey little town that Nick said he had heard of a really great place to stay. But, he didn’t have an address, know the name or have any other details about the place. Odds were not in our favour. For the next hour our so we drove around asking the locals and finally got to the place. Villa Tropical. Heaven on earth.

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We rented the the entire house for 700 pesos!! It normally rents for 3000 pesos but Juan the owner thought that since we were only stopping for one night he only charged for one room. The girls slept in their own room though and Nick and I had a room to ourselves. Bliss. The house is so perfectly set up that I didn’t want to go anywhere. The girls played in the pool forever, you can swim from outside into the house through a tunnel. Gigi thought that it was the coolest thing ever and went back and forth incessantly. She pretended she was a dog and the inside bit was her home, then she was a dolphin in captivity and that was where she could rest before a show. It went on and on.

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The owners Juan and Alfa were fabulous. They have two sons and have been living in Mexico for 20 years. The kids are starting high school next year so they may go up to the states for a year or two. Juan first came down to surf and never left, he built the house and has raised his family on the earnings from the rental. We all went into town for tacos and then to the square to watch the boys play football.
Earlier, Nick and I sat up on the rooftop under a palapa and watched the sunset. We shared a bottle of champagne to celebrate my 40th and watched the waves crashing into the rocks. The girls came up and made up a play for us and Madeline tried to teach me a pirouette.

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It was hard to leave that beautiful house the next morning, Nick and I both agree that we will be back there again one day. Nevertheless, we pushed off around 11am and started up the Michoacan Coast. This stretch is known as the lost coast, it is remote, hard to get to, there are no gas stations and hardly any people. I love it for all those reasons. We stopped in the small beach towns as we made our way up and they are mostly the same; slow, tranquil, and stunning. The military is everywhere as Michoacan is perceived to be a dangerous place right now but I don’t mind. It just means less tourists cluttering up the beach. At almost every beach we were the only people there, besides the fishermen.
We were stopped once on the highway ( think crappy road) on a curve for unknown reasons. It freaked me out as a bus was in front of us and if you were coming up behind in typical breakneck speed, there wouldn’t be time to stop and not plow into us. Nick jumped out of the car and ran up ahead to see what was was going on. Well, a tractor trailer had gone over a cliff and there were 3 tow trucks trying to pull it up the bank. A guy with a machine gun slung over his shoulder was taking pictures. We manged to weave through the wreckage and squeeze our car through. We had big trucks on one side and a cliff on the other. There was no room to spare. As we went through it for a moment Madeline had the machine gun guy right beside her. I could see her eyes get a little bigger, she commented “only in Mexico” and we laughed how most kids would only see a gun like that in the movies!
The rest of the journey was uneventful, we popped into several beaches and watched the landscape change as we came north. This stretch through Michoacan is different than other places on the coast. Normally, we would pass through little pueblos along the highway and taxis are everywhere, but not here. Mode of transportation is on foot and there are no towns, just one or two stick and palapa shacks selling gas out of giant jugs. Slowly, we even left that behind and left Michoacan, passed through Colima and entered back into Jalisco. We pulled into Melaque at around 5pm on a long weekend Friday and had to find a hotel. Good Grief, the town was packed!