We arrived in Nicaragua crossing at the land border with Costa Rica after a hot, long day of travel. We were up and out the door in Grecia, Costa Rica at 6:45am to go get the Ticabus (ticabus.com) which was due to leave at 8am from the the Cruces de Grecia on the side of the highway. Our tickets were $33 USD each and the trip was 6 hours including 2 hours at the border exiting and entering. We found the stop by 7:30am and I was feeling very pleased with myself for getting there a little early as I didn’t want to miss it. Nick was pushing to get there a little later as he likes “just in time” travel. Very stressful for me. At any rate, he was right. This is Central America, nothing happens on time. 8am came and went with no bus. It finally arrived at 8:25am; the bus driver offering no apology for being late and jokingly said my suitcase broke his back loading it into the bus. I did offer to load it myself, however no self respecting, Latin American man is going to allow that to happen.
It was interesting waiting for the bus though as it was a Sunday morning and hundreds of motorcycle enthusiasts go out for a group ride. We saw all sorts of bikes and people dressed up in costumes. There were also a few specialty car groups that whizzed by. One thing we noticed is that the regard for your own life is low when you ride a motorcycle. They weave in and out of traffic, go way to fast, have no protective gear and some even forgo a helmet while driving on the highway. Bananas. Sadly it was about an hour later up the road that we saw our first motorcycle crash and we don’t think the driver made it.
The journey itself was lovely, lots to look at along the way and we could feel the temperature rising as we descended the mountains and made our way to the coast. The bus took the Pan-American Hwy and I always imagined cycling this road on our way to Patagonia; but it is just like every other highway in Latin America; windy, narrow and no shoulder. I would not want to cycle it. There’s very little shade as well. About halfway through the journey we stopped at a roadside cafe for 20 minutes to stretch our legs and grab a snack. It had clean washrooms and a buffet that you just pointed to the items you want and they dish it up for you. It was typical rice, beans, chicken, mystery items and an omelet of some kind. Pretty tasty and quite civilized.
We arrived at the border at noon and we had to line up on the CR side, pay a $8 USD exit tax and have our passports stamped. So we get in line, wait about 20 minutes to get to the front and the customs guy points to a machine at the back of the room where you electronically pay the fee. Sigh. Why no signs Costa Rica? We were told to bring cash but the procedure has changed and at the border you must pay with a credit card. So around we go again, pay the fee and line up again. However, we learned later that you can pay this fee online before you arrive, it links to your passport on their system so no paperwork required. When we paid with our card at the border, the machine said there was an error and no receipt printed but we did get an email confirming the payment though which did offer some peace of mind. If you pay in advance, the land exit tax must be paid through Banco de Costa Rica (BCR), either online with a credit card via the BCR website (www.bancobcr.com) or in person at any BCR bank in the country. Also, keep in mind that the machines at the border are often out of service; so we got lucky.
After exiting CR you then drive or walk across no mans land (currently under construction) which is full of semi trucks and get to the Nicaragua Immigration Office. Before you enter you have to pay $1 USD per person (not sure why but bring small bills as they don’t like to give change) in cash to the person blocking the door. Seemed official…ish. Then you line up to clear customs into Nicaragua. The line moved fairly quickly and it was a mix of locals, backpackers, and young surfer families. When we got to the front the customs guy asked where we were staying with an address, phone number, how long we would be staying, and what our profession is. Then we were finger printed and had our photos taken. Seemed drastic. Then we paid a tourist tax of $13 USD each (in cash, to the customs agent) , passports stamped and we were on our way! Ran our suitcases through an ex-ray machine, easy peasy and walked out into 33 degree heat across a barren parking lot and into Nicaragua.
Our housesit host was waiting for us and we went and did a little grocery shop in Rivas then and made our way to her place to get the lay of the land and meet her pets. It was a little confusing in the grocery store as we had to start thinking in another currency. Basically 50 cordobas is $2 CDN but most people use USD down here. I paid with my credit card and then got USD cash from the bank machine. Interestingly, our cards wouldn’t work in banks ATM but it did at the standalone bank ATM in the local AM/PM store.
The home we are staying in is about 2 miles from the town centre in an area called Barrio del Oro, it has a sweeping view of the forest with the hills and ocean beyond. The owner is building a food forest that covers a few acres and she is currently growing flowers, native plants, a vegetable garden, bananas, papayas, starfruit, chiles, mangos, lemongrass, kaffir, and tons of other herbs. Its really quite spectacular and such a lot of work. We are also caring for 2 dogs and a cat. They all keep us very entertained and are easy to look after.
The last few days we have spent beach hopping and exploring the area. San Juan del Sur (SJDS) is a laid back beach town that has most everything you need and although it is April it still has a sizeable tourist trade moving through town. There are also quite a few expats and there is an international school and tiendas that cater to this crowd. Thankfully it is cheaper here than in Costa RIca and the sticker shock has gone away. The food has been quite good, and my highlight so far was the fresh ceviche. We also bought fresh fish to cook at home and it too was delicious.
The town takes up a bay and there is a small marina here filled mainly with fishing boats and panga boats. Unfortunately, there is one road in and out of town which causes quite a bottleneck at times, especially after work when the locals are hitchhiking to get home. The road spills over with people, dogs, bikes, and taxis just stop and park wherever they want.
Yesterday we spent a big chunk of the day at Playa Majagual, a local beach north of town that was recommended to us from a local. It is an expansive beach that has a restaurant called Juanitas Kitchen along the front. The drive in is a long dirt road that descends into the middle of nowhere and then right before the beach a little town emerges and the main road is currently being paved. Its very odd and I wonder who is paying for that? We took the dogs with us which was quite an adventure as the big dog does not like the car and drools is his stress response. It was like an ocean of water pouring out of his month the whole time in the car. Then today when we were going to beach he took one look at us and shot off into the forest to hide.
Then today we went to Playa Hermosa which is south of town. This beach access is via a resort where you pay $100 cordobas each and you can park and enjoy the restaurant. There are hammocks, couches, freshwater showers, loads of palapas and a very big break for the surfers. We played scrabble, swam, and generally chilled out for a few hours. You are not allowed to take coolers in though. So we emptied ours into our bags and happily walked in. We did order a few drinks from the restaurant to support the waiter though. Overall, a great beach, not too busy, shallow water for dipping and miles of lovely sand.
I should also mention that Nicaragua is undertaking a massive infrastructure project and is building a coastal highway known as the “Carretera Costanera,” which aims to connect the Pacific coast from Masachapa in the north to the Costa Rican border in the south. Currently, these small, rural communities and beaches are only accessible via long, windy, and dusty dirt roads with no signage. This investment will fundamentally change the coast of Nicaragua and I wonder what it will look like in another 5 years.
Overall, Nicaragua so far reminds me of Mexico 20 years ago; the poverty is everywhere, the dogs run free, and it isn’t that easy to get anything done. And I love it, its missing Mexico’s music and culture but there is something pretty great about it. It’s hard to get here for one, which means there are no big hotels and thumping music. And no one hassles you on the beach or in town to buy something. Downside: more rules than Mexico. The security that patrols the promenade are next level. I have been told off several times and told to move on but I am not 100% sure why.
I have a couple more days of work and then my sister flies in for a few weeks and we get to experience Semana Santa or Easter week together. Apparently the town swells from 15,000 people to over 50,000! Should be interesting.
Lastly, animals I have seen in one week in Nicaragua: parrots, magpies, howler monkeys, a toucan (the fruit loop variety), 3 sloths, a tarantula (Nick saw it in its nest, I was too chicken to look), praying mantis’, and a million dogs and chickens. Oh, and the bomberos were out tonight to get rid of a hornets nest in the Barrio and I got stung while watching. Not happy I saw one of them up close. I’m an idiot for staying to watch.
onesmallboat 