When we decided to cycle to Chichen Itza I was feeling pretty pleased with myself. Almost smug. Like who rides their bike to Chichen Itza?

Not many people is my guess and let me tell you why. It’s a long, treeless highway with a smattering of pueblas along the way and not much else. There is no where discreet to pee along the way (sorry to the old man who passed by at the wrong moment) and it’s very, very hot by 9am. Nevertheless, we pedalled on and while it wasn’t a terribly interesting ride it was nice to be on the bikes. I also take back my comments about how dogs in Mexico seem to be treated better. It’s only true in the city; rural dogs do not have it good. I suggested to Nick that we carry kibbles with us to feed the dogs along the way. You can imagine how that conversation went. Poor Nick, he is trying to make our pannier’s lighter and I’m buying dog food.

When we arrived at Chichen Itza we locked our bikes and all our belongings to a post and hoped that they would still be there upon our return. I had my doubts but a local collectivo driver assured me it would be fine. I had visions of him driving away snickering with our panniers. Off we went to queue up and wander amongst the ruins.

Did you know the Chichen Itza was privately owned for a very long time? It was government managed (poorly, I might add both then and now) and finally the government bought it outright for some ridiculous amount of money. Can you imagine finding great historical ruins on your property? Bananas. It is like winning the lottery.

Now I had been there before but it was Nick’s first time and he was shocked by the amount of people setting up stalls to sell you tourist kitsch. We marched on past and did a walking audio tour with an app I had downloaded. It worked well as it was informative and no one tried to sell us stuff as we had earphones in. Two hours later, severely dehydrated and most likely suffering from heat exhaustion we stumbled out of the complex and to my surprise found our bikes intact. Next, we had to track down a ride to Merida as it was still another 140km away and we had a hotel booked for that night. Cycling was not an option.

We had to take a second class bus. I know, terrible right? But we had no other option. So I bought the 2 tickets and when the bus showed up we had to dismantle our bikes to get them to fit in the hold while everyone just stood and watched. Then, we get on the bus and the driver tells us it’s another 100 pesos for the bikes. No receipt. Bullshit. It went straight in his pocket and Nick and I fumed the whole way. The whole 3 hour bus ride. The full 140km, stopping in every town. Plus, the driver stopped so he could go pee right outside my window. I felt like I deserved that one though; for my earlier indiscretion. At any rate, I fantasized about arguing with driver once we got to Merida but by then I was so thankful to get off the damn bus I probably would have paid another 100 pesos.

We arrived in Merida about 3:30pm and then began the adventure of cycling in a very congested city that is all one way, narrow, pot holed streets and drivers who do not give way to cyclists. It was actually quite exhilarating and fun once we realized we had to be aggressive if we wanted to get to our hotel in one piece.

It was like walking into an oasis of calm when we arrived at Hotel Casa Flor de Mayo. It’s a small hotel in a renovated colonial building just two blocks off the Paseo de Montejo which is a beautiful tree lined street filled with cafes and galleries. We settled in and rested up to begin our exploration of Merida!

We decided to take the bus to Valladolid. The 141km distance between the coast and this inland city would require that we overnight halfway and we just couldn’t secure accommodation anywhere. Turns out it was a good plan as the road had no shoulder and we didn’t pass a single hotel.

We took a first class ADO bus and stowed our bikes below standing upright no less for about $15 each. The ride was fast and very comfortable. Nick got us seats up the front so we could see the countryside.

We arrived in Valladolid at about 5pm and made our way to Casa Tunich Naj. It’s a B&B we found online run by this lovely woman Daniela and her grandsons. It only has 2 rooms and we had to wheel our bikes through the sitting room to get to the courtyard.

The city of Valladolid is roughly 50,000 people of primarily Mayan descent. The architecture is mostly Spanish though as most Mayan remains were destroyed completely or torn down and reused to build in the Spanish style. The plazas and churches are very pretty and we spent much of our time walking and exploring the different neighbourhoods. we didn’t meet any other Canadians as most travellers seem to be European right now.

The following morning we hopped on our bikes and did a 30km ride exploring a cenote and some neighbouring towns and haciendas. There are 100’s of cenotes in the area plus the ruins of Ek Balam as well as Chichen Itza. The city is a great jumping off point to explore as well get a true taste of the culture of an inland city.

The remaining day was spent wandering, having a siesta and a late supper of traditional Yucatan food.

We probably could have stayed in the area a couple more days but our room was already rented and we had a room booked in Merida so I could have good wifi for my accounting course in two days time. So we planned for an early night to have an early start the next day to cycle to Chichen Itza. I was looking forward to the ride and to be back on my bike.

Did you know that Cozumel hosts an Ironman triathlon? I didn’t either and to my utmost surprise there is a dedicated cycling lane around the Island. Now I’m being generous when I say dedicated; it’s more like a suggestion. For the most part it was just us and the odd cyclist but in some spots there were scooters, cars, trucks, police cars….you get the picture.

The route loops the southern half of the Island with a main artery cutting through the centre. It is about 65km in total. We set off around 9am from the busy west coast and cut across to the east side which was about a 15km ride. Then there is nothing. Just miles of beach and not a soul in sight. We rode along and stopped to swim and cool off in a few places. It was so pretty but we did need to keep an eye out for animals. Only one close call with a hedgehog looking thing and a few iguanas running across the path.

We had bought a giant bottle of water for 15 pesos before we set off thinking it would be enough. It wasn’t. Even Nick was thirsty and he’s like a camel. We ran out of water at about 30km and finally found a tienda at roughly 45 km where I paid 40 pesos for the same damn water. The lady knew she had me, I had no choice and she was the only place for another 15km. I hesitated for half a second and then bought it anyways. It was the best water I’ve ever had! Once refreshed, we set off for the home stretch. By the time we got back to town it was 3pm. We were starving, still dehydrated, and cranky. It was time to find food.

We cycled up into the town proper and found a Cocina economica which is a family style restaurant where you can order off the menu or get the meal of the day. We did a little of both and had a fish fillet, pozole (delicious Mexican soup), and enchiladas verde. So amazing. Afterwards, it took everything to get out sore backsides back on the bikes for a slow crawl to the hotel to shower and have a siesta.

Nick slept and I studied for a few hours and while we were getting moving to go out again a halloween car parade went past our hotel. I don’t know if this is a regular thing or a Covid thing but it was fun to wave to all the kids in their costumes. We did go down to the square and there was a big street fair and entertainment for Day of the Dead festivities. Another fun fact: kids run around trading candy. The parents give them a big bag and off they go to trade with the other kids. No door to door trick or treating.