Tag Archives: swim

New Friends

When we arrived in Liberia we hired a shuttle from The Gypsy Cab Company to pick us up and drive us the 2.5 hours to Playa Pelada. So great, we got to chat with  Diego, our driver all the way and get insider knowledge of where to eat, best grocery stores, things to do, etc. In my younger travelling years I would shlep the kids and all our gear on the nearest “chicken bus” and take the long, hot drive to our destination. No more, my friends. I am older, wiser and make more money. Plus, Diego rented us his own car for the week at half the price of the rental companies and he took us around to find the secret spots that only the locals know about. Wouldn’t have managed that on a chicken bus.

Our week in Pelada and Guiones felt slow and tranquil; it was filled with long walks exploring the towns and even longer walks on miles of beach. Having a car made things much easier for us and we were able to drive out to a neighbouring fishing village called Playa Garza and have lunch at a traditional Tico Soda. This is basically a mom and pop restaurant usually located where they live. The one we went to was nameless and we ordered the only thing on the menu; the catch of the day served with salad, rice and beans. So delicious, I have no idea what kind of fish it was and since Madeline doesn’t eat fish, they simply gave her everything else. Nick and Georgia had a swim while we waited for our food and then we made the trek back to Pelada. I should add that the distance between these towns is very small, a few kilometers at the most; however, the gravel road is so dusty and filled with giant potholes that it is very slow going.  And we got stuck in a traffic line as they were taking trees down along the road and it was single lane traffic. No flaggers, just the workers. Then when it was our turn to go, it was a free for all, everyone peeling out of the line up trying to get in front of everyone else. It was mayhem, we joined in and held our position!

Playa Guiones is the neighbouring town to Pelada, it is much bigger and attracts all the surfer as the beach there is amazing for surfing. But the town itself strikes me as a town created for expats. It has lots of trendy bars, coffee shops, clothing and retail, etc. and beautiful million dollar homes. The resorts are small and boutique catering to yogis and surfers. It seemed as though everyone there was young, beautiful and rich. Then on that backdrop, the roads are gravel and extremely dusty and everyone drives around on quads wearing bandanas over their faces and ski goggles. It would seem to me that the combined wealth of that town could easily pave the roads. They do spray down the roads in the morning in front of some shops with a sugarcane waste product and the road smells like molasses and sticks to your shoes.

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The Art of Doing Nothing

It’s noon and I’ve been really busy today doing nothing. I don’t know where the time goes, I’ve been up since 8, and all I’ve managed is a swim in the sea. Now don’t go thinking that it’s too easy down here, G was up all night throwing up ( dodgy burrito or perhaps the chocomilk/ ice cream/ cake combo) but she is sleeping now and I should probably have siesta as well.

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Madeline is swinging lazily in our hammock reading and Nick has gone to shoot pool and have birria ( goat stew) for lunch. After being on the road for 3 weeks it has been really nice to slow down and just be relaxed for this past week. Our days unfold the same way each morning more or less; a little exercise followed by a swim, breakfast that Nick cooks, reading, play cards or scrabble, head to the beach for a few hours, siesta and then back to the beach for sunset and our evening beach olympics. The games consist of running races, long jump, wrestling, and a modified golf game using our feet and a volleyball. Finally, we get cleaned up and head out for dinner.

We had two days of heavy rain last week and although it was nice to have a break from the heat, I got cabin fever pretty quickly and we would be drenched in minutes every time we stepped out to go get food. The thunder and lightening was spectacular and we all learned a little about tropical storms. The streets turned into rivers and it took days for it to dry up. The sun is out once again, the beach vendors are out hacking their wares and I am in a panic. I’m almost done my last book and I can’t get to the book exchange until later.

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We have visited with our friend Hilario and his family. We met them when their kids were small, and now we are hearing about weddings, graduations and their youngest just joined the marines. He has to stay in for 5 years but all his costs are covered plus he makes 14000 pesos a month. Most will be sent home to help the family and since Hilario isn’t working anymore, the extra money will help. Hilario had a stroke last year and spent two months in hospital in Acapulco. He has since regained most of he movement in his right side but can’t return to the labour work that he used to do. He’s not that much older than Nick but they are indigenous Mexicans and have struggled to raise their family.

We have 8 days left until we head up North. I can’t believe how quickly the time has gone by. The girls are excited to see their friends but I could quite easily hop on a bus, head south and keep on exploring this fabulous country.

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