Guanajuato

We took a day trip to Guanajuato last Saturday. We got up early and walked across town to the bus station and jumped on the 9:30am bus. The ride is just over an hour and the scenery is quite pretty, think rolling hills, farming communities with the mountains off in the distance. We did get stopped at one point as a pilgrimage was taking up the highway but it was interesting to watch them go by carrying their crosses and pictures of some religious icon.

The city is a UNESCO heritage site and to get into the centre you travel through underground tunnels that intersect beneath the city. These tunnels spit you out into a densely packed area of narrow, one way streets that are lined with colourful buildings broken up by alleyways that snake up the hillside. It’s also a university town with the University of Guanajuato main campus housed in the middle of the Centro and with that comes tons of young people, great cafes, shopping, and a fun vibe running throughout.

The main bus terminal is outside the city about 5km away. We walked out of the main doors and there is a local bus stop right outside. We asked the first bus that came along if he was heading to the Centro and for 8 pesos each we hopped on. Like all bus rides in Mexico, the trip is fast, loud, and more than a little bumpy. Getting back was a little more challenging as we couldn’t find a bus heading back to the main terminal. We waited and asked about 6 bus drivers and finally relented and jumped in a cab. That was 80 pesos and after a long day of walking and climbing a million stairs, we were happy to sit and get a ride.

When we first arrived we decided to just walk around and get reacquainted with the city. We had been here before but it was a long time ago and we had the kids with us which changes how you explore a place. This time, it was so nice to just wander the streets and pop in and out of shops, galleries, and churches. The weather was perfect with the sun shining but not too hot. It seems like there is no end to the views in the city and around every corner is another surprise that draws you in. We found a great little record shop, funky old buildings converted to apartments, and of course spectacular churches and theatres everywhere.

The state (of the same name) is known for its textile artists and you can find leather makers everywhere. The bigger brands are created in Leon but there are also independent operators who create in their shops and you can walk in to watch, buy ready made, or get custom work done. About 9 years ago, when we were here, I had a belt made by this man who’s shop was at the very top of the hillside. So of course on this trip, Nick and I marched up to see if we could find him. We did in fact find his stall and we had a chat with him about the last time we visited and turns out he has been in that same spot for 20 years. We admired his work, bought a few gifts and made our way back down.

Another story, I have been coveting a leather bag that is in a shop in SMA but it’s expensive and I was really struggling with spending $3500 pesos on a bag. So Nick and I would pop in the shop every week or so to admire it and walk out empty handed. Really I admire it and hum and haw while Nick patiently waits for me. So while in Guanajuato, I found another bag that I love and bought for about a third of the price. So happy!!

The climb up many, many stairs was worth it. And see my new bag?!

Right across the street from the Teatro is a lovely shaded square lined with restaurants and mariachis stroll around playing traditional Mexican music. We sat and listened for a while and then went on a search for the top recommended tacos on town. We found them at El Paisa II right in the heart of the Centro near the Mercado. It was so much delicious food; Nick had tacos and I ordered something like the special of the day that had a little bit of everything. The pineapple salsa was amazing and Nick had to finish it. The plate was huge. All in was about $225 pesos including drinks.

We had some time to kill before the last bus left the city and we were done walking so we stopped for a drink. We found a small cafe with a tiny balcony above where we could hide from the hawkers but still enjoy people watching. After that we made our ways to the bus station for the short journey back to SMA. I promptly fell asleep and didn’t wake up until we arrived. It was bliss. All in all, a long but lovely day exploring more of this amazing country.

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